Since the mid 90's we have seen the birth and growth of a connective technology called Universal Serial Bus (USB). Originally designed to connect computers and telecoms equipment, it has slowly become the primary means of connecting a whole host of other devices and has made significant contributions to today's IT world.
The sheer number of USB products on the market today is just staggering, from mice and keyboards, modems, external hard drives to USB fans, lights and coffee cup warmers! Most external computer related devices today connect to a computer via a USB port. So it's no wonder that before long, most computer users find themselves wondering what to do when the USB ports (sockets) on their computer are all used.
There are two solutions to the problem, constantly plug and unplug connectors when swapping between USB devices, or invest in a simple, low cost device called a USB Hub. A USB Hub is a small unit with two or more USB ports, which plugs into an USB port on your computer, allowing you the freedom to connect more USB devices without disconnecting others. Expanding the number of USB ports of your computer in this way not only saves wear and tear on your USB ports and connectors, but also puts and end to all that clambering around behind your PC! Generally speaking, there are four types of available:
1. Internal USB PCI Card
An internal PCI USB Card needs to be installed by opening up the case of your PC and inserting a card into a vacant PCI slot on the motherboard, this type of USB expansion is not advised unless you are familiar with working with and inside computers. If you have the older USB1.1 and upgrade to USB2.0, your version of Windows will also need to be updated so that your PC can support USB2.0 functionality.
2. USB Hub (Non Powered)
An external non-powered USB Hub is a cheap and simple device that plugs directly into one of your computer's existing USB ports and that's all there is to it. These are usually very compact and so make ideal solutions for mobile users with laptops and for desktop users.
Be aware that some USB devices require a small amount of power through the USB port, usually mechanical devices such as printers, scanners, digital cameras and so on. This type of USB Hub may not be able to supply adequate power to these devices especially if you are using a few USB devices together.
3. Powered USB Hub
An external Powered USB Hub is also compact and plugs directly into one of your computer's existing USB ports, so again there is no need to open up your computer to install it. The only difference is that the Powered Hub comes with a separate power supply that must be plugged into the mains socket, supplying the power to all the USB ports on the hub allowing ANY type of USB devices to function properly.
Most Powered Hubs come with a sensible length of USB cable allowing the Hub itself to be positioned in a more accessible place e.g. on top of your computer or on your desk, making plugging and unplugging USB devices much easier. This makes the Powered Hub the all round best solution for desktop computer users.
4. USB PC Card
If you use a Laptop and are on the move, you have an additional choice to the USB Hub, the USB PC Card also known as the PCMCIA USB Card. This device slots into the PCMCIA slot/port found on the side of a Laptop and instantly provides two extra USB ports without using up any of your existing USB ports on the Laptop.
This is the most popular solution for mobile Laptop users. When buying a suitable external USB Hub, consider the location of your computer's USB ports. If they are located at the back of your computer or in an awkward position, you can make your life so much easier by using a USB Hub that comes with a USB extension cable, or by buying a separate USB extension cable. This allows the USB Hub to be positioned to a more accessible place for plugging and unplugging your USB devices.
Showing posts with label computer. Show all posts
Showing posts with label computer. Show all posts
Sunday, January 2, 2011
Saturday, January 1, 2011
Types of Computer Hardware
Computer hardware is a physical part of a computer that executes within the hardware. It is unlike computer software or data that can be frequently changed, modified or erased on a computer. Computer hardware is not frequently changed and so is stored in hardware devices such as read only memory (ROM) where it is not readily changed.
Most computer hardware is embedded and so is not visible to normal users. Below are the different types of hardware’s found in a computer.
Motherboard: It is the central or primary circuit board making up a complex electronic system such as a computer. A motherboard is also known as a main board, logic board or system board.
Central processing Unit: A CPU is the main component of a digital computer that interprets instructions and process data in computer programs.
Random Access Memory: A RAM allows the stored data to be accessed in any order. RAM is considered as the main memory of the computer where the working area is used for displaying and manipulating data.
Basic Input Output System: BIOS prepares the software programs to load, execute and control the computer.
Power Supply: Power Supply supplies electrical energy to an output load or group of loads.
Video Display Controller: It converts the logical representation of visual information into a signal that can be used as input for a display medium.
Computer Bus: It is used to transfer data or power between computer components inside a computer or between computers.
CD-ROM drive: It contains data accessible by a computer
Floppy disk: It is a data storage device
Zip Drive: It is a medium capacity removable disk storage system.
Hard Disk: It is a non-volatile data storage system that stores data on a magnetic surface layered unto hard disk platters.
Most computer hardware is embedded and so is not visible to normal users. Below are the different types of hardware’s found in a computer.
Motherboard: It is the central or primary circuit board making up a complex electronic system such as a computer. A motherboard is also known as a main board, logic board or system board.
Central processing Unit: A CPU is the main component of a digital computer that interprets instructions and process data in computer programs.
Random Access Memory: A RAM allows the stored data to be accessed in any order. RAM is considered as the main memory of the computer where the working area is used for displaying and manipulating data.
Basic Input Output System: BIOS prepares the software programs to load, execute and control the computer.
Power Supply: Power Supply supplies electrical energy to an output load or group of loads.
Video Display Controller: It converts the logical representation of visual information into a signal that can be used as input for a display medium.
Computer Bus: It is used to transfer data or power between computer components inside a computer or between computers.
CD-ROM drive: It contains data accessible by a computer
Floppy disk: It is a data storage device
Zip Drive: It is a medium capacity removable disk storage system.
Hard Disk: It is a non-volatile data storage system that stores data on a magnetic surface layered unto hard disk platters.
Thursday, December 30, 2010
Tips for Perfect Prints (For Beginners)
Undeniably, photo prints still remain the most popular way of sharing memories. With the right printer and a handful of simple techniques, your pictures can look as sharp as the lab-processed ones. Read on for some great tips for getting the best prints possible.
Start with a Good Image
The first thing you need to get a good print — a high-quality image. An image that merely looks good onscreen is not enough. Here’s what a good image file would have:
Good Resolution
Resolution refers to the number of pixels in an image {usually stated in dpi (dots per inch) or PPI (pixels per inch).}. The more pixels a photo has, the more clarity and detail it will retain as you increase its dimensions. Resolution can also be expressed by the width and height of the image, and the total number of pixels it contains. For example, an image that is 1500 pixels wide and 2100 pixels high (1500 x 2100) contains 3,150,000 pixels—or almost 3.2 mega pixels.
Most digital cameras offer a variety of resolution settings. It’s a good idea to use a higher-quality setting if you plan on printing large sized pictures. Here are some general guidelines:
Less than 640 x 480 pixels = Wallet-size prints. Good for E-mailing to friends , picture displays on the refrigerator etc.
640 x 480 pixels = 4" x 6" photo prints. These are going to be best for photo albums, General usage including craft projects (scrapbooks, stickers, etc).
1152 x 864 pixels = 5" x 7" photo prints. These are good for framing for home display, screensavers and photo greeting cards
1600 x 1200 pixels = 8" x 10" or larger. Good for framing, screensavers for home or gallery display and photo calendars
Best Format
Even if your image is high resolution, you will still need to save it in the correct file format: TIFF or JPEG. For best printing results, always save your pictures in the TIFF format (example: my_friends.tiff). Although this format results in a slightly larger file size, it will produce the most satisfactory results. The JPEG format (example: my_friends.jpg) is preferable for e-mailing photos as it results in smaller, compressed files—ideal for sending electronically.
Quality Control
Use a good image-editing program to remove dust marks and specks on your photos. The printer will most definitely pick up imperfections even if they're very small. You can also use the sharpening option to more clearly define the edges of objects in your print.
Use a Good Printer and Know How to Use it
Once you are familiar with the features and settings of your printer, you will be able to get the best possible results.
Avoid DPI Dilemmas
Dots per inch (dpi) is a measurement of print resolution that indicates the number of individual dots a device can create on a page per square inch of area. For crisp, colourful, professional-looking prints, you should choose a printer with at least 600 x 600 dpi. Otherwise, your photos may turn out pixilated (objects will appear jagged and speckled).
Printer Drivers
Printer drivers play the role of translators, acting as a medium of communication between your printer and computer. To help fix problems and bring significant performance improvements, it is important to use the most current version available for your printer. Printer manufacturers regularly update drivers, and you can download new versions for free from the company’s website.
Resolution Settings
Refer to your printer’s manual to learn how to change quality settings. Usually, you would want ‘best quality’ resolution for photos; however, for wallet-size prints, ‘normal’ resolution may be enough. Experiment with your printer settings to see which ones give you satisfactory results.
Paper Settings
Paper settings control the amount of ink that is laid down on paper; therefore, using the setting that matches your photo paper is essential to making good prints. When you find a setting that works best for a particular paper type, make note of it so you will be able to get the same results when you use that paper again.
Clean and Clear
Running the ‘clean’ function in your printer every two to three months improves print appearance and prevents problems such as streaking and clogging. You can access ‘properties’ settings to perform maintenance actions such as cleaning the printer nozzles and aligning the print head.
Understand Your Ink and Paper
Your choice of printing supplies, such as paper and ink, can make the difference between a good print and a great one.
Paper and Ink Selection
Using Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) supplies would definitely assure you of the quality but they come with a price. Nowadays, Canon and HP boast of inks that deliver optimum colour and fade resistance up to 110 years. Non-OEM supplies are definitely cheaper, but its debatable whether they can achieve the same quality.
Drying Time
Before you frame a photo print or add it to a scrapbook, be sure to give it enough time to dry. Most OEM inks and papers are designed to dry within an hour or so, but it is best to allow the print to dry for about 24 hours prior to framing or placing it in a photo album.
If you are printing multiple pictures, remove them from the printer slide as they come out and set them aside. This will eliminate any chances of accidental smearing or running.
Start with a Good Image
The first thing you need to get a good print — a high-quality image. An image that merely looks good onscreen is not enough. Here’s what a good image file would have:
Good Resolution
Resolution refers to the number of pixels in an image {usually stated in dpi (dots per inch) or PPI (pixels per inch).}. The more pixels a photo has, the more clarity and detail it will retain as you increase its dimensions. Resolution can also be expressed by the width and height of the image, and the total number of pixels it contains. For example, an image that is 1500 pixels wide and 2100 pixels high (1500 x 2100) contains 3,150,000 pixels—or almost 3.2 mega pixels.
Most digital cameras offer a variety of resolution settings. It’s a good idea to use a higher-quality setting if you plan on printing large sized pictures. Here are some general guidelines:
Less than 640 x 480 pixels = Wallet-size prints. Good for E-mailing to friends , picture displays on the refrigerator etc.
640 x 480 pixels = 4" x 6" photo prints. These are going to be best for photo albums, General usage including craft projects (scrapbooks, stickers, etc).
1152 x 864 pixels = 5" x 7" photo prints. These are good for framing for home display, screensavers and photo greeting cards
1600 x 1200 pixels = 8" x 10" or larger. Good for framing, screensavers for home or gallery display and photo calendars
Best Format
Even if your image is high resolution, you will still need to save it in the correct file format: TIFF or JPEG. For best printing results, always save your pictures in the TIFF format (example: my_friends.tiff). Although this format results in a slightly larger file size, it will produce the most satisfactory results. The JPEG format (example: my_friends.jpg) is preferable for e-mailing photos as it results in smaller, compressed files—ideal for sending electronically.
Quality Control
Use a good image-editing program to remove dust marks and specks on your photos. The printer will most definitely pick up imperfections even if they're very small. You can also use the sharpening option to more clearly define the edges of objects in your print.
Use a Good Printer and Know How to Use it
Once you are familiar with the features and settings of your printer, you will be able to get the best possible results.
Avoid DPI Dilemmas
Dots per inch (dpi) is a measurement of print resolution that indicates the number of individual dots a device can create on a page per square inch of area. For crisp, colourful, professional-looking prints, you should choose a printer with at least 600 x 600 dpi. Otherwise, your photos may turn out pixilated (objects will appear jagged and speckled).
Printer Drivers
Printer drivers play the role of translators, acting as a medium of communication between your printer and computer. To help fix problems and bring significant performance improvements, it is important to use the most current version available for your printer. Printer manufacturers regularly update drivers, and you can download new versions for free from the company’s website.
Resolution Settings
Refer to your printer’s manual to learn how to change quality settings. Usually, you would want ‘best quality’ resolution for photos; however, for wallet-size prints, ‘normal’ resolution may be enough. Experiment with your printer settings to see which ones give you satisfactory results.
Paper Settings
Paper settings control the amount of ink that is laid down on paper; therefore, using the setting that matches your photo paper is essential to making good prints. When you find a setting that works best for a particular paper type, make note of it so you will be able to get the same results when you use that paper again.
Clean and Clear
Running the ‘clean’ function in your printer every two to three months improves print appearance and prevents problems such as streaking and clogging. You can access ‘properties’ settings to perform maintenance actions such as cleaning the printer nozzles and aligning the print head.
Understand Your Ink and Paper
Your choice of printing supplies, such as paper and ink, can make the difference between a good print and a great one.
Paper and Ink Selection
Using Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) supplies would definitely assure you of the quality but they come with a price. Nowadays, Canon and HP boast of inks that deliver optimum colour and fade resistance up to 110 years. Non-OEM supplies are definitely cheaper, but its debatable whether they can achieve the same quality.
Drying Time
Before you frame a photo print or add it to a scrapbook, be sure to give it enough time to dry. Most OEM inks and papers are designed to dry within an hour or so, but it is best to allow the print to dry for about 24 hours prior to framing or placing it in a photo album.
If you are printing multiple pictures, remove them from the printer slide as they come out and set them aside. This will eliminate any chances of accidental smearing or running.
Sunday, December 19, 2010
How to ‘Download’ Your Old Computer to the Highest Bidder
When you think trash, you surely don’t think about your old, trusty personal computer. But that’s exactly what will become of it when you make the inevitable move toward your next laptop or desktop. And, yes, buying a new computer is inevitable, considering the pace at which computer technology zips along. Just think—about a handful of years ago, a fast microprocessor for a laptop was at 233 MHz. Now you’re looking at about at least 2 GHz! That’s Giga, with a G.
So eventually, you will want a computer that can handle the latest software, the latest games, and the latest interactive Web sites, and then you’ll have to throw away your old computer, right? Wrong. Try selling your used computer instead. Throwing out your computer is one of the worst things you can do. For one, your computer may be useful for someone out there, even if just for scraps.
Trashed computers and other digital equipment also make up one of the fastest growing, and most dangerous, new trash “categories” out there in your neighborhood landfall. On one hand, computers are generally bulky and made of plastic and other materials that won’t be breaking down in a landfill for the next few million years. What’s more, other materials in your old computer are highly toxic to the environment, like mercury, lead and cadmium. They’re so toxic that their actually name in the waste-management field is “toxics.”
You don’t have to be a techie or a scientist to understand the danger in that—nor the benefits of selling your computer. On the Internet, there are a vast number of auction and classifieds sites, some better than others, where you can “download” you computer to a worthy buyer.
Before you boot up your replacement laptop or high-performance PC, however, be sure you read and compute the following tips. These tips will help you avoid the crashes and shutdowns that befall the computer seller who doesn’t do his homework first.
Hold onto all of the operating system and software manuals that came with your old computer. This will add value to your sale, not to mention it will make you a trusted seller for offering up these helpful books to the buyer.
Erase all personal information from the hard drive. And we’re not just talking about simply putting stuff in the “trash bin.” It’s extremely important to purge all data from your computer’s memory repository, even from invisible backup files on the hard drive. If you’re not sure how to do this, ask your IT expert at work or a techie friend for advice. You don’t want the next user to have access to your bank accounts, old e-mails, and other private info, do you?
Uninstall any application from the hard drive that you’d like to use on your next computer, keeping the installation disk and the software serial number for yourself. When it comes to software, the manufacturers made sure that you never really own software, you license it. So you don’t get free reign to keep software on multiple computers. You only get one license, so you need to bring your licensed version with you to your new computer.
Do your homework on your computer’s worth. Just like you would for a car, check around at other classifieds and auction sites to see what other people are selling your make and model for.
Be sure you want to truly get rid of old faithful. You may be able to repair your old laptop rather than buy a new $2,000 Centrino model. Or you may be able to add RAM memory and a new hard drive to your four-year-old desktop rather than invest in a new $3,000 multimedia masterpiece. In other words, do a thorough cost-analysis of what it would take to rebuild your old computer, versus what it would cost to sell it and buy a new one. And check your heart too. You might be surprised just how attached you are to your old faithful.
Once you go through these steps, you are prepared to make your move and sell, sell, sell. And then, of course, you’ll be ready to start on a whole new list of steps—for buying a new computer. But that’s a topic for another article!
So eventually, you will want a computer that can handle the latest software, the latest games, and the latest interactive Web sites, and then you’ll have to throw away your old computer, right? Wrong. Try selling your used computer instead. Throwing out your computer is one of the worst things you can do. For one, your computer may be useful for someone out there, even if just for scraps.
Trashed computers and other digital equipment also make up one of the fastest growing, and most dangerous, new trash “categories” out there in your neighborhood landfall. On one hand, computers are generally bulky and made of plastic and other materials that won’t be breaking down in a landfill for the next few million years. What’s more, other materials in your old computer are highly toxic to the environment, like mercury, lead and cadmium. They’re so toxic that their actually name in the waste-management field is “toxics.”
You don’t have to be a techie or a scientist to understand the danger in that—nor the benefits of selling your computer. On the Internet, there are a vast number of auction and classifieds sites, some better than others, where you can “download” you computer to a worthy buyer.
Before you boot up your replacement laptop or high-performance PC, however, be sure you read and compute the following tips. These tips will help you avoid the crashes and shutdowns that befall the computer seller who doesn’t do his homework first.
Hold onto all of the operating system and software manuals that came with your old computer. This will add value to your sale, not to mention it will make you a trusted seller for offering up these helpful books to the buyer.
Erase all personal information from the hard drive. And we’re not just talking about simply putting stuff in the “trash bin.” It’s extremely important to purge all data from your computer’s memory repository, even from invisible backup files on the hard drive. If you’re not sure how to do this, ask your IT expert at work or a techie friend for advice. You don’t want the next user to have access to your bank accounts, old e-mails, and other private info, do you?
Uninstall any application from the hard drive that you’d like to use on your next computer, keeping the installation disk and the software serial number for yourself. When it comes to software, the manufacturers made sure that you never really own software, you license it. So you don’t get free reign to keep software on multiple computers. You only get one license, so you need to bring your licensed version with you to your new computer.
Do your homework on your computer’s worth. Just like you would for a car, check around at other classifieds and auction sites to see what other people are selling your make and model for.
Be sure you want to truly get rid of old faithful. You may be able to repair your old laptop rather than buy a new $2,000 Centrino model. Or you may be able to add RAM memory and a new hard drive to your four-year-old desktop rather than invest in a new $3,000 multimedia masterpiece. In other words, do a thorough cost-analysis of what it would take to rebuild your old computer, versus what it would cost to sell it and buy a new one. And check your heart too. You might be surprised just how attached you are to your old faithful.
Once you go through these steps, you are prepared to make your move and sell, sell, sell. And then, of course, you’ll be ready to start on a whole new list of steps—for buying a new computer. But that’s a topic for another article!
Monday, December 13, 2010
Canon Pixma inside out – the iP4200 Photo Printer
So you might have already heard about the new Canon Pixma iP4200 that’s doing the rounds in the computer hardware industry nowadays. Everybody is reviewing it, including us.
Canon has been keeping mum over the longest-lasting-photo-prints debate for sometime now. Possible explanations include the newly released Pixma iP4200, with built-in duplex printing; individual cartridges; two paper-input trays; easy operation; inexpensive; great-looking photos; and 100-year print life. Epson, the leading contender for lasting prints, now has competition. The key ingredient to long-lasting prints is Canon’s ChromaLife 100 ink set, included in the Pixma iP4200. The company claims that when used with their branded photo papers, photos printed using ChromaLife 100 inks will last up to 100 years when stored properly.
Compared with the iP4000, the iP4200 is less expensive, faster for business applications, and offers more longevity for photos. However, photos take a little longer to print and earn a lower quality rating than the iP4000, but the overall balance of features makes for an impressive package.
The Pixma iP4200 uses Canon's Full-Photolithography Inkjet Nozzle Engineering (FINE) print head, which releases droplets as small as 1pl for each of the 1,536-nozzle cyan, magenta, yellow, and black print heads (plus 320 nozzles for pigment-ink black text), providing an effective color resolution of 9,600x2,400dpi. Two separate black ink cartridges for both a pigment-based black and a dye-based black, significantly improve photo output.
Apart from five inks, the photo printer offers the advantage of two paper inputs: a standard paper feed tray in the rear and a second paper tray that slides into the front bottom. You could now easily load standard paper in one tray and photo paper in the other, and switch back and forth between standard printing and photos without having to swap out paper every time. One eco-friendly feature of this printer includes the ability to automatically print on both sides of a sheet of paper. However, it might take you three times as long to print a 10-page Microsoft Word document in this mode compared with printing one-sided sheets.
The iP4200's driver can automatically adjust colour balance, you can access sliders that modify the intensity of the individual inks; you can also switch from sRGB to Windows Image Color Management (ICM). Grayscale printing simply requires the tick of a check box, and a simplistic Print Advisor wizard can quiz you on the type of document you're printing and recommend an appropriate paper.
Other than duplexing, the Page Setup options include size and orientation, number of copies, border/borderless printing, and addition of a background image or a watermark. An Effects tab provides settings for optimizing the image; reducing noise; boosting contrast; or adding effects such as sepia, pink, and other colours. You can save your settings as a profile for reuse in another printing session.
The Maintenance tab offers functions such as nozzle checks and cleaning, printhead alignment, and other tasks, including a bottom-plate-cleaning function that uses a folded letter-size sheet to tidy up before duplex printing.
Graphics quality, rated at the high end of good, is suitable for schoolwork or internal business use, and is marginally good enough for an important client or customer you might want to impress. However, some visible problems with photos include a slight pink tint in monochrome photos and a tendency for some colours to be overly punchy. It was also a little troublesome to get a neutral gray out of the printer as prints tended toward either green or blue depending on the driver settings used.
Refilling the Pixma iP4200 Cartridges
The new Canon PGI-5 and CLI-8 cartridges have an onboard chip to measure the ink level of each individual cartridge. The five individual ink cartridges in the Pixma iP4200 feature bright red LEDs that light up when properly installed. The cartridge lights also start blinking when ink is running low, and the blinking gets faster as the tanks get emptier. The numbers of the Pixma iP4200 cartridges are:
PGI-5BK - Black pigment ink
CLI-8BK - Black dye based ink
CLI-8C - Cyan dye based ink
CLI-8M - Magenta dye based ink
CLI-8Y - Yellow dye based ink
These cartridges are also suitable for Pixma iP5200, iP5200r printers, MP500, MP800 and MP950 MFPs.
Needless to say, many people would like to know if these cartridges can be refilled, or if compatible cartridges are available. As of now (February 2006), compatibles are not available for the PGI5 or CLI8 inks, probably for 2 reasons:
The ink formulations are quite complex, and refill ink manufacturers need to ensure their inks will perform equivalent to the original Canon inks.
Canon has patented the on-board chip; consequently, compatible manufacturers have to be very careful not to infringe that patent, which could leave them open to litigation. Canon recently won a lawsuit against a company in Japan, which was involved in the business of refilling and resale of Canon cartridges. Naturally, this will set back any plans for compatible cartridges.
However, there are refill inks available on the market and refilling instructions are available from ink vendors. Canon has very cleverly adapted their printers; if you refill the cartridges and re-insert them into the machine, a warning message will appear on your computer along the lines of:
“You are using refill ink in your cartridges. If you continue, your printer warranty will be void.” You are prompted to press OK, and after doing so, the low ink warning facility on the printer no longer works. If this is the case, you must be very careful never to let the inks run dry, as this will burn your print head.
Canon has been keeping mum over the longest-lasting-photo-prints debate for sometime now. Possible explanations include the newly released Pixma iP4200, with built-in duplex printing; individual cartridges; two paper-input trays; easy operation; inexpensive; great-looking photos; and 100-year print life. Epson, the leading contender for lasting prints, now has competition. The key ingredient to long-lasting prints is Canon’s ChromaLife 100 ink set, included in the Pixma iP4200. The company claims that when used with their branded photo papers, photos printed using ChromaLife 100 inks will last up to 100 years when stored properly.
Compared with the iP4000, the iP4200 is less expensive, faster for business applications, and offers more longevity for photos. However, photos take a little longer to print and earn a lower quality rating than the iP4000, but the overall balance of features makes for an impressive package.
The Pixma iP4200 uses Canon's Full-Photolithography Inkjet Nozzle Engineering (FINE) print head, which releases droplets as small as 1pl for each of the 1,536-nozzle cyan, magenta, yellow, and black print heads (plus 320 nozzles for pigment-ink black text), providing an effective color resolution of 9,600x2,400dpi. Two separate black ink cartridges for both a pigment-based black and a dye-based black, significantly improve photo output.
Apart from five inks, the photo printer offers the advantage of two paper inputs: a standard paper feed tray in the rear and a second paper tray that slides into the front bottom. You could now easily load standard paper in one tray and photo paper in the other, and switch back and forth between standard printing and photos without having to swap out paper every time. One eco-friendly feature of this printer includes the ability to automatically print on both sides of a sheet of paper. However, it might take you three times as long to print a 10-page Microsoft Word document in this mode compared with printing one-sided sheets.
The iP4200's driver can automatically adjust colour balance, you can access sliders that modify the intensity of the individual inks; you can also switch from sRGB to Windows Image Color Management (ICM). Grayscale printing simply requires the tick of a check box, and a simplistic Print Advisor wizard can quiz you on the type of document you're printing and recommend an appropriate paper.
Other than duplexing, the Page Setup options include size and orientation, number of copies, border/borderless printing, and addition of a background image or a watermark. An Effects tab provides settings for optimizing the image; reducing noise; boosting contrast; or adding effects such as sepia, pink, and other colours. You can save your settings as a profile for reuse in another printing session.
The Maintenance tab offers functions such as nozzle checks and cleaning, printhead alignment, and other tasks, including a bottom-plate-cleaning function that uses a folded letter-size sheet to tidy up before duplex printing.
Graphics quality, rated at the high end of good, is suitable for schoolwork or internal business use, and is marginally good enough for an important client or customer you might want to impress. However, some visible problems with photos include a slight pink tint in monochrome photos and a tendency for some colours to be overly punchy. It was also a little troublesome to get a neutral gray out of the printer as prints tended toward either green or blue depending on the driver settings used.
Refilling the Pixma iP4200 Cartridges
The new Canon PGI-5 and CLI-8 cartridges have an onboard chip to measure the ink level of each individual cartridge. The five individual ink cartridges in the Pixma iP4200 feature bright red LEDs that light up when properly installed. The cartridge lights also start blinking when ink is running low, and the blinking gets faster as the tanks get emptier. The numbers of the Pixma iP4200 cartridges are:
PGI-5BK - Black pigment ink
CLI-8BK - Black dye based ink
CLI-8C - Cyan dye based ink
CLI-8M - Magenta dye based ink
CLI-8Y - Yellow dye based ink
These cartridges are also suitable for Pixma iP5200, iP5200r printers, MP500, MP800 and MP950 MFPs.
Needless to say, many people would like to know if these cartridges can be refilled, or if compatible cartridges are available. As of now (February 2006), compatibles are not available for the PGI5 or CLI8 inks, probably for 2 reasons:
The ink formulations are quite complex, and refill ink manufacturers need to ensure their inks will perform equivalent to the original Canon inks.
Canon has patented the on-board chip; consequently, compatible manufacturers have to be very careful not to infringe that patent, which could leave them open to litigation. Canon recently won a lawsuit against a company in Japan, which was involved in the business of refilling and resale of Canon cartridges. Naturally, this will set back any plans for compatible cartridges.
However, there are refill inks available on the market and refilling instructions are available from ink vendors. Canon has very cleverly adapted their printers; if you refill the cartridges and re-insert them into the machine, a warning message will appear on your computer along the lines of:
“You are using refill ink in your cartridges. If you continue, your printer warranty will be void.” You are prompted to press OK, and after doing so, the low ink warning facility on the printer no longer works. If this is the case, you must be very careful never to let the inks run dry, as this will burn your print head.
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